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World of Wine
The riddle of Mr. Riedel

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Foto Noticia
Riedel glasses, especially designed for drinking wine.

By Dereck Foster
For the Herald


One of the advantages of being a wine journalist/writer — take your pick as to which term best describes a person who spends much time uncorking bottles, drinking wine with enviable frequency and then is able to expound his or her opinions to a  (possibly) eager audience anxious to learn what decisions have been reached — is that one is seldom at a loss to find a bottle with which to wash down ones daily meals. In addition, at certain times of the year, such as Xmas and New Year, the number of bottles that one receives to help such a lifestyle to be maintained, are frequently embellished with an item or two which are not exactly drinkable, although connected with wine in some way or another. Just such an item turned up recently to add  to my collection of wine memorabilia.

The item in question is a wine glass, but not just any wine glass but a Riedel Malbec wine glass. And what, you may well ask, is a Riedel wine glass, and why Malbec? I suppose that the best way to start is to travel to Austria and meet a certain wine Georg Riedel, a glass-maker who has been blessed with an unusual sensitivity connected to everything to do with wine. In the words of  Jancis Robinson, he is a true wine connoisseur and he has put that expertise into designing what he claims to be the ideal wine glass not just for wine, but for each individual type or style of wine.

Riedel’s theory is that different types of wine — both blends and varietals, react differently to minutely different styles of glass design.

He began by designing glasses for  young red bordeaux and for mature red bordeaux and his designs were by and large accepted as effective. Port wine next received attention, followed by a series of other designs, amongst which  B runello di Montalcino and Chianti were successful amongst connoisseurs.
Riedel’s theory is based on the assertion that minute glass designs optimize certain aromatic and taste factors on the nose. Some of these design factors are visible to the eye, such as the size of the bowl or the diameter of the mouth, but others are hidden from all but (one presumes) Georg Riedel himself.

The fact is that from Europe Riedel has moved further afield, including Argentina, where a special design for Malbec wines was introduced a few years ago. But as Riedel glasses are definitely on the expensive side, I quite happily have kept to my anonymous, absolutely reliable glass which has been with me for a good long time. The fact that by using it I may be missing out on certain subtle and basic characteristics inherent in the wines I drink, does not worry me at all. It is too late to change my spots now.

Meanwhile a couple of words about a couple (or more) wines that have recently come to my attention. That excellent Neuquén winery Bodega Del Fin Del Mundo has launched a new line of wines under the name of FIN Single Vineyards. There are six wines in the family, two of which — the Cabernet Franc and the Tannat — are varietals, the first for this winery.

Meanwhile Salentein celebrate their first 10 years operating in Argentina, launching their 2009 white wines I have, as yet, only tasted the Chardonnay Reserve which, at 50 pesos is an excellent buy and worthy of a special occasion with its soft, lingering fruity aftertaste.

I have also received a number of Rutini wines which I will only be able to report on in a little while. They will, however, contribute to what one hopes will prove to be a Happy New Year.



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